Suntory Hakushu 18 Year Single Malt Whisky (750ml) ($599.99)

David Othenin-Girard | K&L Spirits Buyer | Review Date: January 24, 2025

Hakushu 18 Year was, for many years, my golden goose of Japanese whisky. Believe it or not, back when I started in this industry over 20 years ago, the Yamazaki 12 Year was the least expensive 12-year-old single malt in my store. I think we charged $37, while Glenlivet 12 Year was priced at $40. When I wanted to treat myself, the 18-year-old was only $100!

When the Hakushu 18 Year launched in 2006, it was literally all I wanted, and it was incredibly hard to find. It was difficult to sell yourself the one bottle allocated to your store, so I eventually paid retail elsewhere and coveted that bottle like it was my baby. Then it became impossible to find and extremely expensive, yet my desire to have it in my possession never really waned.

Now, tasting the modern version, I actually think it’s improved significantly over the years. My desire to own the Hakushu 18 Year has never really connected with my perception of its quality, and that’s something I can appreciate more today. Let’s have a little bit together! The color is a beautiful burnished hue (1.1). Huh, this is much darker than I remember the old version being.

HOLY MOLY, the nose is absolutely stunning, full of beautiful tropical fruit, wild honey, antique wood, the finest black teas. The smoke is so integrated and rich that you’d be hard pressed to identify it as a peated malt on the nose. The ultra-supple entry builds with deep roasted fruit, deep vanilla, rancio, and baking spice that leads toward a round, complete, and savory finish. Again, we’re not in the overt peat world here, and the depth and age of this whisky feel well beyond its 18 years.

For all that is said about Suntory’s consistency, this is wildly inconsistent with what I remember—in the best possible way. It’s much, much better! A pour and a little 92-point score from 13 years ago does not do the modern Hakushu 18 Year any justice. It’s very clear that they’re putting beautiful old malt into this, drawn from a variety of extremely high-quality barrels. This is a beautiful whisky that should be considered by anyone looking for a luxurious experience.