Review: Six-Year Hogshead Single Malt with Peat and Savory

The nose begins unexpectedly with honey-roast root vegetables such as parsnip and neep. Then some dried sage. And eventually bigger, smokier ambitions are revealed. Carbolic soap, smoked grains, black olive bread, umami paste, oyster sauce and lemon oil. A wee peat fire squeaks in the corner. Reduction gives peated cereals, Dettol, assorted medicines and rollmop herring. The palate reveals a deep, yet silky peat smoke. Almost velvety in texture with notes of salted white fish, black pepper, BBQ sauce, dry earth and a briny lemon note at the back. With water there are green olives, chopped parsley, salted popcorn and smoked almonds. Transferred to a heavy toast medium char hogshead at six years of age.